Restaurant review
Fare wind for France
Patrick O’Brien
enjoys a Gallic night out in TeddingtonF
rench food has always been at the forefront of fine dining. What with the versatile use of ingredients, aninnate flair and an uncanny ability to create the most imaginative dishes, France and its chefs are secure in their
place ate the summit of the international culinary league. Now the latest Gallic invader has reached Teddington,
in the form of Restaurant NOEL, launched in September of last year by business partners Sergio SIMON, and
Chef Noel Capp, the high street venue has already established itself as one of the best places to eat in town.
Accompanied by la chere Verity, I pitched up on a busy Friday Night to try out this haven of fine fare for myself. What I found was a tasteful and typically French interior, complete with dark wooden furniture, crisp linen tablecloths and gleaming silverware, the very incarnation of continenal sophistication and style.
A choice of seven starters and seven mains awaited. On the starter front, highlights included confit of duck with leek ?& foie gras terrine, served with pear chutney, and anchovy, new potato timbale, with an apple and keta caviar dressing.
Verity chose the special: a raviolo of fresh crab with a zesty lemongrass nage that provoked a stream of contended exclamations. I meanwhile, was equally impressed with my baby squid stuffed with a chorizo risotto accompanied by minted chick peas , a rare and beautiful combination of ingredients that repaid every second of waiting in the packed Restaurant NOEL, with a capacity of 60 covers, this venue enjoys an impressive lay out, with intimate corners for couples and plenty of room for groups, the bar was convivial too. But then, what would you expect from the land that coined the phrase bon viveur?
Glorious mains included rump of lamb, flageolets bean puree, braised shallot with a tomato and mint jus, and roasted hake fillet with crushed new potatoes and leeks, served with a smoked haddock veloute.
Verity choose ballotine of chicken and duck confit with fondant potatoes and wild mushrooms, another superb dish, beautifully presented, nor could I fault my choice of lemon sole with spring onions, crayfish and a pea & herb veloute.And all this accompanied by a very decent bottle of 2006 Petit Chablis.
Noel Capp may be from Sheffield, but he once studied under a very french sounding Englishman: Marco Pierre White.It shows too, everything about this place is perfect, enough to keep the entente cordiale alive and well for miles around
Restaurant Noel
136 High Street, Teddington
(020) 8977 3344
www.richmondmagazine.co.uk 35